the.com/gastropub

A bar that got ambitious and started charging you for it.

means A pub that serves restaurant-quality food alongside its pints, blurring the line between the local boozer and the dining room.

from A late-20th-century blend of 'gastronomy' (from Greek gastēr, stomach, plus nomos, rules — literally 'the laws of the stomach') and 'pub.' The word is usually traced to a specific pub in London in the early 1990s that started serving ambitious food, kicking off a trend the press needed a name for — so they smashed the two words together.

origin
coined in britain, early 1990s
tell
chalkboard menu, truffle fries, still has darts
price jump
fish and chips now means twenty dollars
real test
beer list as curated as the menu
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