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a fish that walks the seabed on finger-legs and growls like it owns the place

means A marine fish with a large bony head and spiny fins, distinguished by finger-like pectoral rays it uses to crawl along the seabed and a swim bladder it can vibrate to produce grunting sounds.

from From Old French 'gornart', built on 'grogner', to grunt — itself from Latin 'grunnire', that imitative word for the noise a pig makes. So the name is the fish's voice written down: a creature christened, quite literally, the grunter.

leg fins
Uses modified fin rays to walk and taste
audible grunts
Drums its swim bladder to growl underwater
wing bluff
Flares neon pectoral fins to startle attackers
taste feet
Its leg-rays detect prey buried in sand
flying name
Some species called sea robins for fanned wings
for instance

red gurnard — common edible fish (chelidonichthys lucerna) throughout northeast atlantic and mediterranean

tub gurnard — species (chelidonichthys lucerna) found from norway to senegal, prized in european fisheries

grey gurnard — eutrigla gurnardus, abundant bottom-dwelling fish in north atlantic commercial catches

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